The كندورة (kandura), a man’s long robe, and عباءة (abaya), a woman’s loose outer garment, are the most immediately recognisable elements of Emirati dress. But they are only part of the wardrobe. Head coverings, formal cloaks, colourful dresses and carefully made trims each have their own place. Begin by distinguishing an outer layer from the clothing beneath it, and everyday dress from clothing chosen for an important occasion.
Men’s dress: the kandura and its companions
The kandura is a full-length garment, commonly white. It is worn with the غترة (ghutra), a headcloth that may be white or red-and-white checked, and the عقال (agal), the black cord that holds it in place. These pieces form an ensemble rather than interchangeable accessories.
A distinctive detail is the طربوش (tarboosh), the tassel-like feature hanging from the neckline. Its proportions have changed: historical examples discussed in The National show shorter, twisted versions rather than the longer form familiar today. Even this small detail challenges the idea that national dress has remained unchanged.
The بشت (bisht) is an additional cloak, often edged with gold-coloured trim, worn over the kandura for important occasions. It is not another name for the robe underneath. In formal dress, notice the layers: the kandura provides the base, while the bisht changes the character of the outfit.
For a visitor invited to a formal gathering, the practical lesson is to ask about the expected dress rather than assemble an outfit from photographs. The same approach is useful when learning about the majlis and Arabic coffee: follow the host’s guidance rather than assume every gathering follows an identical pattern.
Women’s dress: beyond the black outer layer
The abaya is worn over other clothing. Alongside it, the شيلة (shayla) is a headscarf, commonly black. Embroidery, beadwork and the finish of the cuffs and hem can give an otherwise restrained garment a distinctly individual appearance. The outer layer does not tell you everything about the wearer’s wardrobe.
The مخوّر (mukhawar) is a long women’s dress, rather than an outer cloak. It brings colour, patterned fabric and decoration around the neckline and cuffs into the picture. Versions range from relatively simple everyday clothing to elaborately embellished dresses chosen for celebrations. Cotton, silk, chiffon and velvet offer different weights and effects.
Remember the distinction when shopping: an abaya and a mukhawar serve different purposes. Ask whether a piece is intended as an outer garment or a dress, and whether its decoration is handworked, machine-made or a combination. Do not assume that every glittering trim is traditional handwork.
The Emirati burqa is a fabric face covering
The برقع (burqa), also transliterated burqa’a, is a shaped face covering made from specialised fabric. Abu Dhabi Culture records its traditional association with married women and how its making passed from mother to daughter. It should not be confused with a full-body covering bearing the same English name elsewhere.
Despite its lustrous appearance, it is not a metal mask. Its construction includes a small supporting piece over the nose, traditionally made from palm, bamboo or another wood. The fabric was historically imported from India. Older examples could cover more of the face; materials, proportions and uses have changed, including versions worn by younger women for special occasions. These are histories of making and wearing, not a reliable way for a stranger to judge someone’s marital status today.
Talli: the craft along the neckline and cuffs
تلي (talli) is a textile craft used to decorate women’s clothing. Although often described as embroidery, its characteristic narrow strips are made by twisting and braiding threads together, then attaching the finished work to garments. Look closely at a decorated cuff: several bands can sit alongside one another.
The maker works with bobbins around a supporting cushion. Cotton threads combine with metallic-looking strands to create the pattern. Historically, genuine silver or gold thread was used; synthetic alternatives are now common. This is precise, skilled work, and the repeated movement of the threads matters as much as the finished shine.
UNESCO inscribed Al Talli, traditional embroidery skills in the United Arab Emirates on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2022. The recognition concerns the craft and its knowledge, not Emirati clothing as a whole. The UNESCO entry is the authoritative starting point.
For a wider understanding of textile work, read about Al Sadu weaving alongside talli. When viewing either craft, ask about the materials, tools and intended use before comparing their appearance.
Regional details without rigid labels
Emirati tailoring belongs to a wider Gulf clothing tradition, but details deserve attention. The National’s account of kandura-making distinguishes a straighter, more square-cut Arabic design from a more fitted cut associated with Kuwaiti influence. It also documents jackets and waistcoats worn over kanduras, and changes in fabrics and buttons.
These overlapping influences make a rigid “one emirate, one outfit” guide unhelpful. Instead, notice a particular feature, such as the neckline, the fall of the cloth or the shape of a trim, and ask how that wearer or maker describes it. Avoid treating clothing as proof of nationality, family background or religious observance.
For historical comparisons, seek photographs with a date, location and collection reference. Our reading list and archive guide offers a route into further research; an undated photograph cannot establish when a style began.
Everyday wear, Eid and family occasions
Occasion changes the choice of garment and the degree of decoration. A mukhawar may be everyday clothing or an elaborate Eid outfit; talli can adorn both ordinary dresses and wedding clothing. “Traditional” therefore does not mean “ceremonial”, and “decorated” does not necessarily mean bridal.
If invited to a wedding or family celebration, ask your host what guests normally wear and whether different parts of the event have different expectations. Ask before taking photographs, particularly in private gatherings. An invitation to attend is not permission to photograph everyone present or share their images.
For seasonal context, explore Ramadan customs and Haq Al Laila, rather than assuming that all festive clothing serves the same occasion.
What visitors should wear
You do not need to recreate national dress to visit the UAE. Dress for the setting, distinguishing between considerate everyday clothing and a venue’s specific entry requirements. Abu Dhabi’s official visitor guidance recommends respectful clothing for sightseeing, covering shoulders and legs at government offices, and dressing more conservatively during Ramadan.
A useful packing approach is:
- Choose loose, opaque clothing with comfortable coverage for heritage visits.
- Pack a lightweight long-sleeved layer and full-length trousers or a long skirt.
- Keep swimwear for the beach or pool; change before continuing your sightseeing.
- Carry an extra layer for strongly air-conditioned interiors.
- Check an invitation or venue’s own guidance instead of assuming one outfit works everywhere.
These are practical recommendations, not a claim that every public place has an identical dress code. Official Abu Dhabi guidance distinguishes beach clothing, government-office visits and evening venues with their own requirements.
Mosque visits require a separate check
At Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, the published code requires women’s clothing to be loose-fitting, reach the ankles and have sleeves to the wrists, with full hair coverage. Transparent, tight or revealing clothing is not acceptable. Men should avoid transparent or tight clothing and sleeveless shirts; the Centre states that full leg coverage is preferable.
An abaya is not the only possible compliant garment: the Centre allows other clothing that meets its requirements. Check the official visitor registration and dress guidance before travelling, and arrive appropriately dressed rather than relying on borrowed clothing. Other mosques may have different arrangements.
If you choose to buy Emirati clothing, ask a tailor or seller to explain the fit, layers and care. Treat the garment as clothing people live in, not as a fancy-dress prop. A thoughtful question about a seam or a handmade trim is a better starting point than asking someone to represent an entire culture.